The Liberty House
Earth Formed - Earth Sheltered Construction

How is it Constructed?

So far, my only real-world venture has been hand-digging a 20' earthen dome form for a room which would be the size of most of the rooms shown in the above model.  This dome form (pictured below) is 10' tall, rising 5' above ground level, and 5' below. The only tools used were a garden spade, a 30' piece of string, and a stick used as a pivot for scribing the circumference lines.  Most of the basic principles for the construction of the house in the slide show are illustrated in this simple animation. A multi-roomed structure can be designed and formed using intersecting earthen domes and earth-formed doorways. They can be dug at different grade depths and heights for varying purposes and levels of security ... from totally above ground to partially below grade, and completely below grade. The animation illustrates one half the dome above grade, the lower half below, with the entire structure then bermed with earth.

For one room module

-  Set stake, scribe one lime-powder circle the desired diameter of the base of the structure, then another circle at least at least 5' beyond the first. Now you are ready to begin digging out a 5' deep V shaped trench in the area between the circles.

-  Begin throwing one shovel full of dirt at-a-time into the center of the innermost circle.  Notice (with satisfaction) how with each shovel full deeper you make the trench, the mound in the center increases in height the same amount. This 2-for-1 action allowed me to dig and smooth the twenty-foot earthen dome in only 3, 4 hour shifts (12 total hrs.) at my then age of 57, unassisted, and out of shape. Obviously, with one or two helpers this could be achieved in less than a day, or with earth moving equipment, the better part of an entire house. Consider please.  This method results in a finished form for all foundations, walls, ceiling, doorways, and various openings and windows. This is accomplished without the use of a single nail, requiring no carpentry skills, building experience or lumber.  There is no tailor-made, expensive inflatable membrane to sew, and no muscle or back-straining and dangerous over-head work as required for 'monolithic domes'.   'Earth-formed' for real, and truly dirt-cheap.

- Shape and smooth the dome. This is much easier and faster than might be imagined. The bottom, below-grade half of the dome is comprised of firm, undisturbed earth, easily scraped and shaped, once the trench is dug. The top half of the hemisphere is of smaller volume and easily tamped firm and smooth upon the solid base below.  Here are three views of my twelve hour labor.  This dome form is 20' in diameter and 10' in height with an entrance and rear exit tunnel forms included.

      

- Install reinforcement, A most fortuitous recent development is basalt (lava) reinforcement materials eight times less weight than iron with three times the strength, available in light, easy to work rolls.  Instead of Portland cement soon I think one will be able to use the yet to be released, hard-as-clamshell, carbon-sequestering cement made from passing CO2 ladened air through sea water.  (Taking the climate change issues very seriously, and knowing the large part that the manufacture and use of Portland cement and iron reinforcement bar has played in causing it, my enthusiasm for using them has dampened my interest in this construction method the last few years. Even factoring in the long-life and low-maintenance standard concrete offers, making these materials, over time ecologically more sound than other present state-of-the-art building materials and methods, still, I think they must be replaced, and soon.) 

- Form any desired openings for plumbing and electrical conduit pipes. Set culvert pipes as forms for later installation of 'sun-tube' windows and skylights. Dig out footing, foundation area at base of the trench and reinforce with basalt rebar, tying together the walls and floor. sculpt interior earth reverse forms for any desired decoration or cubby hole, furniture, cabinets, sinks, hallways, vents, bed-wombs, etc  .

- Spray (shotcrete or gunite) or pour 3-4 inches of concrete mix, let set for proper time with proper moisture applied, cover with moisture proofing polyethylene sheeting, 

- Scoop out dirt forming from underneath the dome and hallways, placing the dirt back into the dug trench, filling it, and onto the top of the well-set concrete shell. The entire structure is to be covered at least two feet before adding insulating umbrella, or three foot or more if insulation for the earth bank is not to be applied. Note: Just one benifit of this, 3' of earth, reduces gamma radiation 1000 times over from an unprotected open area.

- Install insulating umbrella over this dirt and structure, (see below) extending 20' beyond perimeter to keep earth mass dry and heat from escaping into the atmosphere.  DO NOT INSULATE THE DOME WALLS DIRECTLY. The idea is to allow free passage of the heat through the walls in the summer, and storing it in the massive surrounding earth bank ... and then return spontaneously into the living space in cooler months ... NO air-conditioning or further energy use for heating or cooling required!  It serendipitously takes six months to warm the 20' deep bank surrounding the structure, and six months for the heat to move back into the living space when the temperatures become lower than the surrounding soil.  The result, an ambient temperature the same all year 'round!  Soil must remain dry, however for this to work and insulated from the atmosphere above the structure.  Also, water-table must remain below twenty foot deep, unless extraordinary measures are taken. 

- Add another two to four feet of earth over the insulating umbrella structure, 

Pour floor or prepare earthen floor, form and pour built-in interior accoutrements. 

- Plant ground cover. 

 - Live

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 Forming, Footing details 

Appendex

Passive Annual Heat Storage ( PAHS)

This Liberty House model uses a novel insulating/water-shedding blanket or umbrella that covers the entire structure and the surrounding soil.  I first heard of this method introduced by John Hait in a Popular science magazine in 1986. This creates a huge subterranean thermal bank that absorbs the sun’s energy during the summertime and stores it for winter heating.  In many cases, if done properly, this method supplants a major heating system or air conditioning. 

  • Umbrella Homes ... from Popular Science, August 1986, pages 64-66.

    This simple underground house design uses a novel insulating/water-shedding blanket that covers the structure and surrounding soil.  The umbrella creates a huge subterranean thermal reservoir that soaks up the sun’s energy during summertime and stores it for winter heating.  In many cases, the clever design makes a heating system unnecessary.   The reverse can also be done for hotter climates.  

    By JOHN HAIT        My first earth-sheltered house, an underground geodesic dome was partially complete when the truckload of insulation my colleagues and I had ordered arrived. Right away, we knew we had a problem: How do you put flat, rigid polystyrene insulation on a round house?

    We called housing experts all over the country, but no one had any ideas. Finally, Ray Sterling at the University of Minnesota's Underground Space Center suggested that we place a flat, insulating "umbrella" in the earth above the building. This, he said, would keep the domelike house warm by insulating the soil around it.

    Figure 1 Geodome, the first umbrella home (in idealized form), maintains a 66°to 74°temperature year-round without heating equipment in western Montana’s cold climate.  In summer, solar hat radiates in, falls on internal surfaces, and is absorbed into the surrounding soil.  The umbrella traps heat in the dry soil until winter, when it migrates back into the house.  Convection-driven earth tubes provides ventilating air.

    "What a marvelous idea!" I thought when I heard his advice. After two weeks of rigorous examination, I realized that the concept was even more promising than I'd supposed. By then I was convinced that the dry earth under an insulating/water-shedding umbrella could store enough free solar heat from the summertime to warm the house through the entire winter (see diagrams above). This meant that a house could actually be constructed with an unchanging built-in temperature, which would make heating and cooling equipment unnecessary. Now, five years later, I still think it's a marvelous idea. The Geodome, the house we built in the cold and cloudy climate of western Montana, remains at 66 to 68 degrees F, even through the coldest winters.

    The success of the Geodome led to the establishment of the Rocky Mountain Research Center, a nonprofit organization dedicated to the development of what is now called the passive annual heat storage (PAHS) approach to free year-round passive-solar heating. Four basic points make PAHS different from techniques used in conventional solar-heated earth-sheltered houses:

    ·     The house's window shades are opened to collect solar heat in summer.

    ·     The umbrella's laminated sandwich of polystyrene insulation and polyethylene sheeting (about R-20) insulates a huge mass of surrounding dirt instead of just the house.

    ·     The umbrella sheds water to keep the soil around the house dry.

    ·     The natural-convection-driven ventilation tubes (see below) provide very high heat retention efficiency by acting as counter-flow heat exchangers.

    Conventional passive-solar theory tells us to exclude the abundant summer sunshine by blocking it out with large window shades because the typical (relatively small) thermal mass in a solar house can store only a night's worth of heat. Yet we're also told to make the windows large enough to capture what little solar heat we can in winter. PAHS, on the other hand, uses the summer's abundant sunshine to heat up a large body of earth around the house to a comfortable 72 degrees F or so. That warm thermal mass keeps the house and its occupants cozy all winter. Simple thermal conduction transfers heat through the walls, into the soil, and back.  

    Twenty feet underground, the natural soiltemperatureis nearly constant (see diagram), and is equal to an average of the entire year's worth of temperature changes on the surface. The Geodome's inexpensive umbrella isolates the soil beneath it from fluctuating outdoor air temperatures above. By controlling the heat flow in and out,the blanket raises the constant soil temperature around thestructure to reflect the newly established average annualair temperature inside the house. The result is a comfortable indoortemperature that varies only six or eight degrees during an entire year, whileoutdoor air temperatures may vary from minus 40 to more than 100 degrees F.

    Although the Geodome's window area amounts to about six percent of its floor area—less than most solar homes —the summer sunshine lasts much longer, and so more solar heat is collected and stored away than is available from any passive winter thermal-collection system.

    We've learned several lessons from the Geodome that have advanced our understanding of integral year-round thermal systems. First, the design temperature of 66 to 74 degrees is built in and is difficult to change. This became apparent during its first winter. The Geodome's tenant at that time, a salesman who was constantly on the road, found that the house temperature was still at 66 degrees F in March—even with a few warm bodies or appliances to add heat. We realized then that if you would like it a little warmer or a little cooler in such a house, you would have to enlarge the window area and install adjustable shades. That way, the annual solar input could be altered to modify the internal temperature as desired.

    Second, thermometers indicated that the umbrella altered the ground temperature much farther out from the walls than we expected. I located some National Bureau of Standards studies that showed that air-temperature changes affect the soil temperature more than 20 feet down into the earth, so we concluded that the umbrella should be extended to at least that distance beyond the walls.

    Third, an examination confirmed that the earth underneath the umbrella was bone-dry, even though the soil on top was moist. The dry dirt below makes waterproofing the structure easier, while the moist soil above helps alleviate the desert-like conditions that often occur on top of many earth-sheltered houses. Note that the water table must not moisten the thermal mass.

    PAHS seemed to offer a way to build energy-efficient homes that require no commercial energy supply for heating or cooling, but we realized that to become truly practical, we needed to provide for ventilation, heat retrieval, and moisture control.

    No good solution presented itself until one day when I was teaching a class of students at the center about convective heat flow. After a time, the discussion turned to-ward the use of earth tubes—pipes in the ground that bring in outside air for ventilation. Then one of the students asked about convective heat flow in earth tubes. Before I knew it, the solution to our problem was sketched on the chalkboard: an open-loop, convection-driven earth-tube system (see diagram) that draws outdoor air into the house to be heated by the summer sun, transfers it to the buried earth tubes where it passes some of its warmth to the relatively cool soil, and finally exhausts it outside. In winter, the cycle would reverse itself.
     

    Essentially, the earth tubes act as heat exchangers: If the air in the tubes is warmer than the earth, the earth soaks up and stores the heat. If the soil is warmer than the air, it gives up heat to the air flowing through the tubes (see diagram). In this way, the temperature of the outside air can be altered to provide the house with warm fresh air in winter and cool fresh air in summer.

    The tubes themselves must be very long (between 150 and 200 feet) so they can snake their way back and forth> through the soil under the umbrella. (For clarity, the tubes in the diagrams are shown straight rather than bent.)  Typically, we use earth tubes that are between four and eight inches in diameter. We lay each pair out under the umbrella so that they slant downhill from the house to permit water runoff and so they both exit the ground at the same elevation.

    This type of earth-tube arrangement differs considerably from the earlier "cool-tube" installations, which have been in use for some time. A single cool tube allows air to flow only one way—into the house. The house can inhale, but it cannot exhale. To exhaust stale air in winter, a window or vent must be opened, which would dump large quantities of heat outside. Also, lacking the insulating/ water-shedding umbrella, cool tubes do not have the warm earth environment that allows the air in the tubes to be heated as well as cooled. Properly coupled, the open-loop, convective-heat-flow earth-tube system and the PAHS sys-tem can provide free, year-round heating, cooling, and ventilation for the earth-sheltered home.

    Figure 24  Second generation umbrella home in Missoula, Montana was constructed by Tom Beaudette, the engineer of Geodome.

    This still-experimental housing technology is already being used to satisfy at least a portion of the heating needs for several recently constructed earth-sheltered homes. It is also being built into a number of full-fledged PAHS earth shelters, such as the house depicted above, which was constructed by Tom Beaudette, the engineer of the Geodome.

    Detailed explanations of these concepts are provided in my 152-page book: Passive Annual Heat Storage, Improving the Design of Earth Shelters. It's available directly from the Rocky Mountain Research Center

     The Rocky Mountain Research Center has a current web address of:
     
    http://www.earthshelters.com/  John Hait's  book, PASSIVE ANNUAL HEAT STORAGE, Improving the Design of Earth Shelters  can be purchased here. An easily read and understood book with invaluable information about  earth-sheltered construction and energy needs and savings.